French Drain Installation Guide: Complete Step-by-Step Instructions
A French drain is one of the most effective solutions for managing groundwater and surface water problems. Named after Henry French, who popularized the design in 1859, this simple but effective system intercepts water and redirects it away from problem areas.
What Is a French Drain?
A French drain consists of:
- A trench filled with gravel
- A perforated pipe that collects water
- Filter fabric that prevents soil infiltration
- An outlet that discharges water safely
Water enters through the gravel, flows into the perforated pipe, and is carried to a discharge point by gravity.
When to Use a French Drain
Ideal Applications
- Intercepting groundwater before it reaches a foundation
- Draining soggy areas where water pools
- Redirecting surface water away from structures
- Behind retaining walls to relieve hydrostatic pressure
- Along driveways to catch runoff
When NOT to Use
- Active springs - May need professional dewatering
- High water table - Drain will just fill up
- No outlet available - Water must go somewhere
- Heavy clay with no gravel discharge - Dry wells won’t work
Planning Your French Drain
Step 1: Identify the Problem
Before digging, understand your water issue:
Questions to Answer:
- Where does water come from?
- Where does it collect or cause problems?
- Where can it be safely discharged?
- Is this surface water, groundwater, or both?
Observation Tips:
- Watch your property during rain
- Note where water flows and pools
- Check after heavy rain and days later
- Look for wet spots, moss, or erosion
Step 2: Locate Utilities
Step 3: Plan the Route
Route Considerations:
- Start where water collects or enters
- Follow the natural slope of the land
- Avoid tree roots when possible
- End at a safe discharge point
Outlet Options:
- Daylight to lower area of property
- Storm drain (check local codes)
- Dry well (if soil percolates)
- Rain garden or infiltration area
Step 4: Calculate Size
For most residential applications:
| Drain Purpose | Minimum Trench Width | Minimum Depth |
|---|---|---|
| Surface water collection | 12 inches | 18 inches |
| Groundwater interception | 12 inches | 24 inches |
| Foundation protection | 12-18 inches | Below footing |
| Retaining wall | 12 inches | Full wall height |
Pipe Diameter:
- 4 inches: Most residential applications
- 6 inches: Larger areas or higher flow
Calculate your French drain requirements →
Materials and Tools
Materials List
| Material | Purpose | Specifications |
|---|---|---|
| Perforated pipe | Collects and conveys water | 4” corrugated or rigid PVC |
| Drainage gravel | Filter medium, allows water entry | 3/4” clean washed stone |
| Filter fabric | Prevents soil migration into gravel | Non-woven geotextile |
| Solid pipe | Connects to outlet | Match drain pipe size |
| Fittings | Connections, clean-outs | 90° elbows, tees, couplings |
| Catch basins | Surface water entry (optional) | 9” or 12” square |
Material Quantities (per 10 linear feet):
- Gravel: ~0.5 cubic yards (18” wide × 24” deep)
- Pipe: 10 feet + fittings
- Fabric: 20 linear feet (4’ wide roll)
Tools Required
Hand Tools:
- Shovel, spade
- Trenching shovel (narrow blade)
- Rake
- Level, string line
- Tape measure
- Utility knife
Power Tools (Recommended):
- Trencher (rental) - Saves hours of digging
- Plate compactor
- Reciprocating saw (for pipe cutting)
Installation Steps
Step 1: Mark the Trench
- Use stakes and string to mark trench location
- Spray paint the route
- Mark outlet location
- Verify slope direction
Step 2: Excavate the Trench
Trench Specifications:
- Width: 12-18 inches
- Depth: 18-24 inches (or as calculated)
- Slope: Minimum 1% (1/8” per foot)
Digging Tips:
- Work from outlet toward source
- Check depth frequently with level and tape
- Keep sides fairly straight
- Pile soil on one side for easier backfill
Step 3: Check Grade
The drain must slope continuously toward the outlet:
Example: 100-foot drain needs 1 foot of fall (minimum)
Checking Grade:
- Drive stakes at start and end
- Stretch string line
- Use line level to level the string
- Measure down from string at intervals
- Adjust trench depth as needed
Step 4: Line with Filter Fabric
- Unroll fabric along trench length
- Leave enough to fold over top later
- Smooth fabric against trench walls
- Overlap sections by 12 inches
- Secure with stakes if windy
Step 5: Add Gravel Base
- Pour 2-3 inches of gravel in trench
- Spread evenly with rake
- Check depth and grade
- Compact lightly if needed
Step 6: Install Pipe
Pipe Orientation:
- Holes face DOWN for groundwater collection
- Holes face UP for surface water (with gravel to surface)
- Most manufacturers recommend holes down
Installation:
- Lay pipe on gravel bed
- Connect sections (snap fit or glue)
- Maintain consistent slope
- Install clean-out fittings at direction changes
- Connect to outlet pipe (solid, not perforated)
Step 7: Cover with Gravel
- Carefully add gravel around pipe
- Fill to within 4-6 inches of surface
- Ensure pipe stays in position
- Don’t overfill—leave room for fabric and soil
Step 8: Wrap Filter Fabric
- Fold fabric flaps over gravel
- Overlap by minimum 4 inches
- Ensure complete coverage
- Stake if needed
Step 9: Backfill
Options:
- Gravel to surface: Best for surface water collection
- Soil and grass: Conceals drain, less surface collection
- Decorative stone: Good compromise, some surface collection
Backfill in layers, compacting each if using soil.
Step 10: Complete Outlet
Daylight Outlet:
- Extend pipe to discharge area
- Install rodent screen on outlet
- Add splash pad or riprap for erosion control
- Ensure outlet is clear of obstructions
Dry Well Connection:
- See dry well installation requirements
- Ensure adequate percolation
- Size for expected volume
Special Situations
Around Foundations
For foundation protection:
- Install OUTSIDE the footing
- Pipe should be below basement floor level
- Use rigid pipe (not corrugated) for durability
- Connect to sump pump or daylight outlet
- Consider waterproofing membrane on foundation
Behind Retaining Walls
Essential for any wall over 2 feet:
- Install during wall construction
- Place 6-12 inches behind wall face
- Include weep holes through wall
- Collect at base and outlet to side
In Lawns
To maintain grass:
- Use sod-covered trench cap
- Install catch basins at low points
- Consider deeper installation (30+ inches)
- Grass may grow better after drainage improves
Troubleshooting
Drain Not Working
Possible Causes:
- Outlet is blocked
- Insufficient slope
- Pipe is clogged
- Fabric is silted over
- Wrong location for problem
Solutions:
- Check and clear outlet
- Flush with hose
- Add catch basins
- May need to reinstall
Standing Water in Drain
Possible Causes:
- Outlet below water level
- Outlet blocked
- Insufficient capacity
- High water table
Solutions:
- Lower outlet or install pump
- Clear obstruction
- Add parallel drain
- May need professional dewatering
Erosion at Outlet
Causes:
- No energy dissipation
- Concentrated flow
- Steep outlet slope
Solutions:
- Add riprap or splash pad
- Disperse flow with perforated pipe
- Create small settling basin
Maintenance
Regular Maintenance
Annually:
- Inspect outlet for blockages
- Check for settling or sinkholes
- Flush with hose if accessible
- Clear debris from catch basins
After Major Storms:
- Verify proper flow
- Check for new erosion
- Inspect outlet function
Signs of Problems
- Water backing up in catch basins
- Soggy areas reappearing
- Sinkholes along drain route
- Poor outlet flow during rain
Cost Summary
DIY Costs (per linear foot):
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Perforated pipe (4”) | $1-2 |
| Gravel | $2-4 |
| Filter fabric | $0.50-1 |
| Fittings, misc. | $0.50-1 |
| Total per foot | $4-8 |
50-foot drain DIY cost: $200-400
Professional Installation: $25-50 per linear foot 50-foot professional drain: $1,250-2,500
Equipment Rentals:
- Trencher: $150-250/day
- Plate compactor: $50-75/day
Summary
A properly installed French drain will provide decades of reliable drainage. Key success factors:
- Adequate slope - Minimum 1%, more is better
- Proper materials - Clean gravel, quality fabric
- Good outlet - Water must have somewhere to go
- Filter fabric - Prevents clogging
- Sufficient capacity - Size for expected flow
Calculate your French drain requirements →
References
-
French, H. F. (1859). Farm drainage. Orange Judd Company.
-
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. (2000). Design and construction of levees (EM 1110-2-1913). USACE.
-
Cedergren, H. R. (1989). Seepage, drainage, and flow nets (3rd ed.). John Wiley & Sons.
-
Federal Highway Administration. (2007). Highway subdrainage design (FHWA-NHI-07-021). U.S. Department of Transportation.
-
American Society of Civil Engineers. (1998). Urban subsurface drainage (ASCE Manual of Practice No. 95). ASCE Press.